A Reflective Journey to Dharamshala

Travel Stories by Isabella Symonds-Willmott

As I board the propeller plane to my next destination, I immerse myself in one last breath of the chaos that is India’s capital – Delhi. With that quick moment of appreciation for the vibrant adventures that came before, I nestle into my seat looking forward to a totally new experience, though still within the same country.

We head north to the foothills of the Himalayas. To the spiritual mixing pot of multiple religions, Hinduism to Buddhism. To the fresh mountain air and the crisp crystal waters that flow from the undisturbed valleys above. And, to the adopted residence of His ‘Holiness’ the Dalai Lama. To Dharamshala.

As we glide down through the clouds to reveal the vast infinite mountain range, Dharamshala did not disappoint even upon landing. Stepping out onto the tarmac we are within a small opening of the valley that narrowly fits the airports runway. There is no terminal or passport control, just a simple area to collect your bags. Only two commercial flights land a week here, so whereas in most airports you are whisked away briskly to the next terminal, here you are able to stand on the runway fully embracing the drama and beauty, and the cleansing air of your new destination.

Driving to the hotel you realise you are still in India. The energy is colourful and maintains the traditional buzzing atmosphere the county is known for. As we drive from village to village, experiencing the break between chaotic to calm, we begin ascending the valley, zig zagging up the mountain side.

The higher we climb the narrower the roads become and the more exhilarating the journey becomes. Finally, the entrance of the hotel emerges from the last points of the cliff track. I sign a breath of relief from the exhilaration.

As the vehicle makes the sharp turn into the property, we find ourselves winding through a path speckled in dense trees. The feeling of relaxation and a sense of peace and serenity flows through me. After a few moments of green nature, the hotel reveals itself. Walking into the reception a smell of floral essence teases my nose, and as the beautiful lady gracefully places the garland of flowers over my neck jasmine and rose envelope my senses. And, as she presses her finger on the centre of my brows I am immersed in the tradition and spiritual connection of the place around me.

The hotel is a peaceful retreat that blends contemporary luxury with the rich cultural heritage of the region. It is surrounded by the lush pine forests and offers us views of the surrounding Himalayan landscape. It is a place of comfort and serenity, making it an ideal destination for both relaxation and exploration!

When entering my suite, I am greeted with a fusion of Tibetan architecture, yet with all modern amenities thus creating the perfect mix of luxury and authenticity. I then head towards the balcony to breath the fresh pine air and embrace the mesmerising view of the mountain’s valley from the comfort of my own space. I am a cautious eater and as much as I enjoy experiencing different cuisines, I do need a little bit of what is familiar as this helps me to switch from ‘Adventure Me’ to ‘Relaxed Me’. I search for those places that can give me both typical dishes and regional, whether it is the simplicity of ordering the daily salad or indulging in an intimate dining experience, the main emphasis is the fresh local ingredients. Our hotel resides just above Dharamkot, which is a vibrant, yet peaceful village set 2,100 metres within the Dhauladhar mountain range. Though the hotel offers the flavours of Dharamshala, I also believe in immersing oneself in the local restaurants.

Dharamkot is home to the Triund Trek, known by trekkers who look to incorporate scenic views and perhaps what would be an ‘active spiritual journey’. Thus, the village is known for its meditation and spiritual aura. As I walk the streets my eyes are filled with colour from the tapestries that line the houses. The thick wave of spices hit my nose and then a sudden change in wind I smell aromatic scents of oils and flowers. People are kind, yet also unbothered by my existence which is unusual in most places in India with the pressure of selling to tourists.

Here one is at ease to enjoy the magic around you. As I continue to explore, I fork off from the main street to a quiet lane that winds upwards. To my right, the lane is dense with trees, and to my left a slope with the view of the mountains and forestry. And a few moments later there is a small café on the side of the lane. As I walk inside its personality comes to life; books, pictures, different energies swirling around, and the thick smell or coffee and chai hits my senses. With most of the seating being floor cushions covered in authentic fabrics, one wonders of all those who have pasted through here on the way to the trek or just simply to find peace and solitude. Silence was the conversation; I listen to nature and relax.

Waking up hazily to the sound of wind brushing through the branches, the windows and curtains are open. In other regions of India, you would not leave your window open, but here the air is pure. Today we meet The Dalai Lama. Though I am not a Buddhist, I still very much feel the gravity of the situation. On a small peak in the middle of the Kangra Valley sits peacefully the Namgyal Monastery. It is a modest place despite being home to the most important figure in Buddhism religion. This really is a reflection on the people themselves, they are not extravagant and extroverted in ceremony, but of insular appreciation and gratitude for daily life, the sole purpose to give back to others.

Tragically after the Dalai Lama had to flee his own county Nepal, he was granted safety and protection by the Indian government and their army. Though he is absent from his ‘home’, the northern region of India populates a large community of Tibetans and Buddhists. It is still unclear when, or if, he will ever be able to return to his native land.

While holding my chai tea and biscuit, I feel his aura entering the room long before he approaches. Then without instruction I instinctively become silent and look towards the door. From my own experience, meeting him was not the expectation I had anticipated; ‘a realisation of the meaning of life or spirituality’, though quite the opposite. It was a sense of calm, like I knew him. The smile on his face was warm, and as he said something to me in the ancient Tibetan language, and I smiled back as sensing it was words kindness.

Later one of his advisors came to find me. He told me what he had said to me – “Good to see you again old friend”.

I cannot wait to return to Dharamshala, to explore more. I often think of that café in Dharamkot and the peace I felt. And I ask myself how or why is it a peacefulness I haven’t experienced again? I can only put it down to the energies of those that have passed through, but mostly to the foundations it is built upon. That of the grounds that connect three of the world’s most spiritually cohesive countries; India, Nepal, Bhutan, and the very ground that is worshiped by the Buddhists as life-givers, preservers, protectors; the Mountains of the Himalayas.

Perhaps that is what I felt, thousands of years of spirituality worshipped into the earth I stood upon. And so, with all my thoughts being woven together, I now know where my next adventure lies — Nepal where the horizon beckons, and Bhutan where the soul finds its place.